Kootenay National Park – first look

After driving north about an hour and a half from Cranbrook I arrived in the little town of Radium Hot Springs. The Visitor Center there doubles as the Visitor Center for Kootenay National Park, the first of six National Parks I would visit while I will be based in the town of Golden, BC for 6 nights. Rather than backtrack I decided to go ahead and drive through the Park on highway 93S. The road starts in Radium Hot Springs (and there are actual hot springs within the Park) and ends at the Trans Canada Highway, in part of Banff National Park. From there I would also drive through another, smaller National Park, Yoho, on my way to Golden. I will find a map showing all of these places so it will be easier to follow along.

Kootenay is the third largest of the six Parks I will visit in the next few days. The road in a normal 2-lane highway with a 90km/hour speed limit and an occasional passing lane as the road rises and falls in elevation throughout the Park. It slows down from that top speed in areas where people are parking for trails and such, or for the few activities scattered throughout the Park. I just stayed on the main road, other than pullouts for viewpoints to take photos, and a parking area for a waterfall and a river. I am not a hiker, especially at elevation, so the highway is fine for me, and there was plenty to see. The highway is only 64 miles long but they say to allow 90 minutes for all the stops you will be making to take photos.

There are LOTS of mountains, and at this point I am unable to identify all of them so I won’t even try. I am calling this post #1 because I will actually be coming back here to do the exact same drive again in a few days when it will be a clearer day. As you will see, some of the mountains were partial obscured by high clouds on this pass.

So for now I will just post photos of what I saw, with a few explanations, and will go into more detail when I get to pass #2. The map they provide doesn’t even list all the mountains you will be seeing, another reason why I won’t even start trying to identify them.

Of the mountains listed on the map, 2 are over 7,000 feet in elevation (near the southern entrance), 6 are over 8,000 feet, 11 are over 9,000 feet and 5 are over 10,000 feet. And they don’t even include the highest peak in Alberta province, Mount Assiniboine, which towers above all of these at 11, 870 feet. It is located in its own Provincial Park, just to the east of Kootenay. I couldn’t even see it because other, smaller mountains, separated us.

So sit back and enjoy the views, as I did:

All of the photos in this post were taken with my smartphone except the next two. They were taken with my digital camera, using a zoom lens. I don’t know enough to tinker with the camera settings and when posted together they look rather “washed out”. I include them only to show more detail than is shown on the larger photo, above.

This is the Kootenay River, looking south (the direction I was coming from). The color in many local rivers vary from a pale, chalky white, to a pale blue or turquoise color, as many are fed by melting ice from glaciers – snow and ice packs high atop the tallest mountains which have snow on them year round (and which contribute to the clouds which often appear over mountains on an otherwise cloudless day).

Same place but looking north:

And trust me, the water was VERY cold.

This was part of the Park which burned in a wildfire back in 2017. Canadian National Parks have probably all suffered wildfire damage at one time or another over the years. Some are fortunately very small and can quickly be contained if they threated people or structures. There was a small fire near Dog Lake earlier this year but I didn’t see any evidence of it. The area shown in the photo above is near Simpson Rock and was part of the larger Verdent Creek wildfire in 2017. It consumed 38,300 acres (about 60 square miles) and was believed to have been started by lightning.

This is a small waterfall, Numa Falls, located near the north end of the Park. Not a very steep drop-off but time has worn some very curious patterns into the rock on either side of the water.

These mountains are actually in Banff National Park but they were in front of me as I left Kootenay. I passed directly from Kootenay to Banff National Park at the Continental Divide (and by doing so entered Alberta Province), turned left on the Trans Canada Highway which would run for several miles (within Banff), and then cross directly into Yoho National Park (which put me back in British Columbia!). It all happens very quickly, so no need to adjust your clocks!

I will cover all of these in separate posts. Banff National Park is enormous and will be covered separately over several days. Yoho, which means “hello” in the native Ktunaxa and Secwepemc dialects, didn’t have that many big mountains but it had other things which I will address in separate posts. I would pass through Yoho several times, in both directions, in the coming days, getting to and from Golden and points east.

And believe me, there were MANY. MANY more mountains than what I’ve shown. This was not a great picture day, and it was my first day in the Parks. I now know that I took better photos a few days later, so be sure to review that post (#2) carefully as it will contains lots more photos.

5 weeks in – a JohnBoy travel update

Sunday, August 31 marked the end of 5 of my planned 8 weeks in western Canada. So far everything is going exceptionally well. I am behind with posting photos which means every day is filled with new adventures. I am prepared to post my photos of the first National Park I visited in the Canadian Rockies but can’t find my Park maps on which I made many notes which I need to reference. The back seat of my car looks like a bomb went off, and I need to root through it and find them. Of course, they aren’t where I thought they were…

As I write this I am in Red Deer, Alberta – finishing the first of 3 nights here. I was in for a shock yesterday morning as I drove up here from High River, AB, south of Calgary. After I bypassed Calgary to the east on Highway 2, a major north/south route, I continued north towards Red Deer (about halfway between Calgary and Edmonton) where I was greeted by a very noticeable low brown cloud of haze. It didn’t smell like smoke, and I wasn’t aware of anything going on in the immediate vicinity, but there it was. I drove a little past Red Deer and it seemed to improve somewhat so I just chalked it up to smog, even though Red Deer only has a population of about 113,000 people.

Overall visibility after I left Castlegar and drove east of the Canadian Rockies Sunday morning was not that great and I thought maybe it was just high pressure keeping whatever was in the air close to the ground. Well, this morning I learned that an air quality alert of over 10 (they call it 10+ on a scale of 1 to 10!) has been issued for little Red Deer. It seems that smoke from a massive wildfire up in the Northwest Territories (a large province due north of Alberta and Saskatchewan) has made its way south. In the last day or two I had read about a big wildfire up in Yellowknife (in the NWT) but didn’t pay much attention because it is 1,000 miles north of here and I wasn’t going much further north than Edmonton. Well, nature works in mysterious ways…

Environment Canada says it is supposed to clear out of here in the next day or two. Today I am planning to drive about 50 miles west to “The Cowboy Highway,” Route 22, the southern part of which I had driven on to get to High River on Sunday. Route 22 has been on my list of scenic roads here and I am sticking with that plan. Other than photo ops I will be in the car with the A/C on “recirculate” so hopefully whatever is in the air won’t bother me. I am tempted to just hunker down and stay inside for the day but I figure one day won’t kill me… If I start out this morning and the haze has gotten any worse I will retreat to my Airbnb and prepare more photos for posting. When I leave Red Deer Thursday morning, I will be driving much further west and should be away from the NWT and the smoke for good. Everything on my route going forward looks fine.

The other travel news is that I am moving my trip to Alaska UP by a week and will start heading north Wednesday of next week! I have decided to hightail it up there and get it in sooner rather than later and then retreat in a more leisurely fashion and finish my time in British Columbia on my way back to the US. I had already booked things through Prince George, BC and will drive north and west from there. I don’t have the itinerary set yet but am hoping to be in Alaska 4 or 5 weeks depending on the weather. I am still on the original overall plan, just rearranging the order in which I’m doing things.


So as of Sunday, 5 weeks in to my original plan, I have driven 6,225 miles in Canada, and a total of 10,825 miles since leaving Durham the morning of July 1.

I just had my oil and filters changed and had the tires rotated so I am all set for the next 10,000 miles! Bring it on!