July 14, 2019
After visiting Hopewell Rocks on Saturday I spent the night in the town of Moncton, New Brunswick. Sunday morning I headed southeast to cross into Nova Scotia.
Looking at my maps I always thought all of Nova Scotia province was an island but in fact the majority of it is a peninsula – attached to the southeast tip of New Brunswick. The northeast end of Nova Scotia is an island. I will address that issue further when I get there later in this trip.
(Photo credit: somethingbiggeroutthere.wordpress.com)
The map above covers most of what I will address in this post. Moncton, NB is off the map in the upper left corner and I crossed in to Nova Scotia just above Maccan in the upper left part of this map. I took scenic roads (not shown) through River Hebert, southwest to Apple River then south to Advocate. I then proceeded east through Parrsboro, Five Islands, Economy and then reached a bigger highway near Debert Station which would take me to Truro (due east of Belmont and just off this map) where I would spend the night.
When I got to River Hebert I learned something new about tides: that they can create a tidal bore.
River Hebert (the town) is at the bottom of the map above – almost the end of the line for this part of the water coming in from the Bay of Fundy. The photos below are of the water from a bridge over the Hebert River. The water, as it was at Hopewell Rocks, is milk-chocolate brown. This is because of the constant churning of water and mud at this, the shallow northeastern part of the Bay which almost completely drains at low tide.
A tidal bore is something that occurs at many locations due to the force of the incoming tide pushing large amounts of water forward quickly. In narrow areas, such as the river at this point, that “push” creates kind of a teeny tiny tsunami – a wave of water as much at 3 feet high which surges forward. I’m sure you can find videos on YouTube.
The water here was moving rapidly towards me but I didn’t see any tidal bores – they occur about 2 hours before high tide.
Further down the road near the town of Apple River I drove over that river coming in from the Bay. The water is clearer here because it is from a deeper part of the Bay. The water was obviously moving rapidly inland, away from the Bay, as the tide was coming in.
And while the water in the photo above was moving “up” from this vantage point (the other side of the bridge), the marsh grass on the right was clearly matted towards the Bay (“down”) as it had moved back during the transition to low tide a few hours earlier.
The photos below are looking south from Advocate Harbour.
The water is especially calm here because there is a rock barrier separating most of this harbor from the Bay.
This is further east in the town of Parrsboro. I am posting this photo because of something which happened shortly after I took it. Although I was driving east this was when things started going south.
The first sign of trouble was when the road I was on turned to gravel. Shortly after that I stopped to take these two photos – of Two Islands (aka The Brothers)…
… and of the view looking southwest (towards Clarke Head in the foreground and Cape d’Or in the distance. If you look closely you’ll see a guy in a kayak in the lower right hand corner of the photo below.
Shortly after I resumed driving the road went from gravel to two tire tracks in the grass (and became very rocky) and I surmised I was not on the right road. I plugged in my trusty GPS which quickly confirmed that I had gone astray.
I drove the 7 miles back to Parrsboro (no harm, no foul) and my GPS put me on a much nicer paved road to take me where I had intended to be.
East of Two Islands is Five Islands:
I overlapped one of the islands if you want to create a panorama. The tiny “finger” sticking up on the far right of the second photo evidently doesn’t qualify as an island.
I proceeded without further delay to Truro where I found another Tidal Bore observation area (where I saw a video of a tidal bore. It looked kind of like the water coming ashore after a wave breaks but before it reverses direction). I was running ahead of schedule – despite the detour – and the young man I spoke with there suggested a good restaurant in town for dinner and also suggested I visit a large city park to help pass the time. He told me there was a nice waterfall but that I’d have to climb “Jacob’s Ladder” to get there:
I was going to play my “Go ahead, count ’em – I’ll wait” game but it isn’t a fair fight. You can’t see all the stairs from this vantage point because they slope away from the field of view as they approach the top.
187 stairs, which helped boost my Fitbit stair count for the week.
I ended up NOT going to the waterfall. After climbing all the way up I had to go DOWN another bunch of stairs and then go right back up to get out. I could see the waterfall and it wasn’t anything remarkable so I just marched back down the “ladder” and went to my Airbnb for the night.